My Churro friend wanders on across the highway, encouraged by his guardian, a sheep dog that appears to be a mixed breed, part border collie.

The dozen or so sheep disappear behind a ridge and I continue across the Continental Divide to Crownpoint where I hope to arrive in time to see the scores of weavers lining up to have their rugs checked and signed in by the Association founders, mother-daughter team of Ena Chavez and Christina Ellsworth.

Each weaving is checked for authenticity to assure the buyers that they are 100% wool warp and weft and created by the weaver. No imports or fakes allowed here!

After I park in the familiar elementary school parking lot (I actually taught a group of Navajo Head Start teachers in this very building more than 30 years ago) I enter and find a short line of weavers already checking in about 4 in the afternoon.

For the next two hours, as the rugs are checked in, volunteers tag each one with the name and community of the weaver and place them on tables in the gymnasium. The weavers find their spots to try and get comfortable for the long evening's wait to see if their rug sells and for how much. This is a social event for the weavers as well. The children play together, both inside and out and the weavers not only get a chance to meet and greet other weavers, but, also, look forward to the event to compare their weaving and to learn which types of rugs are selling best. This is, after all, a commercial enterprise designed to help the Navajo economy and the weavers and their families in particular.

Not unimportant in this monthly drama are the visitors who come from all over the world. On this night, according to the sign in sheet, are bidders from England, Canada, Japan, Finland and a dozen or more different states in the U.S. Some are dealers, looking to buy for their shops. Some are part-time dealers, planning to sell on the Internet. Many are tourists looking to find a treasured, hand-woven authentic Native American reminder of their Western odyssey. Others are local regional folks seeking just the right decoration for their adobe home in New Mexico, Arizona or Colorado.

While the pros carefully inspect the rugs, making measurements, checking the quality, counting the wefts per inch, and writing down serious notes, the tourists mix in, talking with each other about which rug they like best, wondering aloud how much it might sell for and how much they should spend.

Everyone makes remarks about the exquisite beauty, the unusual pattern or color, or other characteristics of the rug that catches their eye.

Food and Other Artisan Creations

And, while all this is happening inside the gymnasium, a couple of dozen artists and vendors are busily setting up tables in the hallway outside where they will display pottery, kachinas, jewelry, baskets, dolls and other native handmade items. Some are even selling delicious homemade breads, pies, pastries and sodas.

Speaking of food, usually around 5 pm or so, the Rug Weavers Association opens the kitchen and begins serving Navajo Tacos and Fry Bread. If you haven't tried either of these, it's worth the trip even if you don't find the rug of your dreams. Navajo tacos are usually made with a large (about 10" in diameter) piece of fry bread smothered with a meat and bean sauce that is covered with cheese, lettuce and diced tomatoes. And to spice it up a bit more you can add chopped raw onions and salsa. Of course, you can share this with your partner or simply have a Fry Bread with honey. Either way, you win!

Bidding Begins

After everyone has eaten and all the rugs have been checked in and inspected by the potential buyers, the rugs are carried up to the stage where they will be auctioned off at the rate of about one per minute. There may be 200 rugs or even as many as 400, but they will all go on the block for sale. The evening may end by 10 or as late as 12:30 or 1 in the morning.

Following the introduction of co-managers Ena & Christina, the cowboy auctioneers (at least they're wearing Wranglers, cowboy boots and hats) appear, explain how the auction works and begin. No time wasted here. There's a lot of work to do and they want to sell the rugs as quickly as possible, before some of the bidders tire and leave for the evening. Sometimes the bidding starts off slowly. Many of the bidders are first timers and uncertain.

Often the best buys on small rugs can be had in the first 15 minutes. The weavings are offered with a minimum starting bid and sometimes it may seem a bit high. If it does seem high you're probably a dealer thinking about doubling or tripling the price in your store. Usually the prices are very reasonable. Often they are terrific bargains. And the best bargains appear to be on the larger rugs. Some of these masterpieces might go for five to ten thousand dollars in a gallery or trading post. Here at the auction you can likely buy it for two or three thousand.

For a first timer it may seem difficult to know what to bid, but, as in buying any work of art, you should be governed by your heart as well as your head. Obviously, you don't want to spend more than you can afford, but you should buy because you love the piece. It's not likely that you will overbid. The far greater possibility is that you will leave with a bargain, especially considering the amount of time and skill required to weave your rug. In 30+ years of attending this event, I have rarely seen a rug sell for more than a few dollars over what I thought the retail might be. A couple of times I have thought the prices were high, but upon further reflection and seeing the same weavers work selling at later auctions, realized that there was a legitimate demand for that work and that the price was, indeed, reasonable.

On very small rugs, however, valued at maybe $75 - $150, it is not unusual to see them sell at very close to and even a bit above the going retail value. This is because everyone who comes wants to take a rug home and the bidding for the less expensive rugs is more competitive. Even so, paying a slight premium for something you really enjoy and which will add immensely to your memories of your trip seems well worth a few extra dollars. Besides, in a couple of years, the value will have likely increased enough to surpass those few extra dollars you might have paid. Ya'at'eeh! Keep on Traveling!

When you go:
Crownpoint is located on the Eastern side of the Navajo Reservation, about a 2 to 2 1/2 hr drive West of Albuquerque, New Mexico. Take I-40 west to Thoreau, get off at exit 53 and follow the two lane road north to the Crownpoint turnoff and follow this road directly to the Crownpoint Elementary School at the traffic light. Pull into the parking lot and have an enchanted evening. And yes, cameras are allowed!

Bring your checkbook or cash - they don't take credit cards.

For more information
For dates and times see CrownPointRugAuction.com For an expanded trip visit fabulous Chaco Canyon near Crownpoint Gorp-Chaco For information on visiting Albuquerque see ABQ CVB For more on Churro Sheep visit Navajo-ChurroSheep.com